Martinique & Dominica Once Again
Saturday 17 November - Friday 23
November
We had miss communicated with Wild
Thing on departure time, so when they were away from the marina
and going past us in the anchorage yelling at 8:30, I had just gotten
out of bed. Steve went up on deck and waved then called them on the
VHF. They were having trouble getting their main sail out and we
told them we would need at least an hour to get ready to leave. We
wanted to check email, since in the French Islands it's sometimes not
as easy to get, and change the water maker filters, and a few other
things before departure. Wild Thing circled around in the
anchorage for about 45 minutes before they got their main sail out
and were underway. And we were about an hour behind them leaving St
Lucia about 10:30. It is a short distance between St Lucia &
Martinique, only about 25 miles. It was a great sail with wind just
aft of the beam and gentle 2-3 foot swells. We got caught in a 10
minute shower that sucked all our wind away but other than that we
sailed along at 7-8 knots. As we were passing Petit Anse D'Arlet I
could see that they now had mooring balls, and a lot of them. As we
rounded the headland into Grande Anse D'Arlet at 2:30 we could see
that they too now had mooring balls. ALL NEW, we were here in June
and there were only a few private ones. These are so new they do not
even have pennants (line to grab from boat) on them yet. Wild
Thing came over in their dinghy to help with our lines, they
had trouble when they got in as these are big mooring balls with
heavy chain so NOT easy to lift with a boat hook to get a line
through the ring on top of the ball. Luckily some one got in their
dinghy and came over to help them also. Steve & George go in to
clear in, still at the little cafe and still NO charge. No one said
anything about the moorings and no one came by the boats to collect a
fee, so I guess for now they are free. Still a little room to anchor
but in grass (sandy spots taken) that while snorkeling we saw could
have debris to snag your anchor. Refreshing swim around the boat and
combined dinner on Ocean Star. Sunday another slow start to the day,
Steve & I are on island time where George is up and ready to go
at daylight, Jan makes him slow down a little but he is always eager
to go. We do get to shore by 10:30, we are showing Jan & George
the hike up over Champagne Hill to Petit Anse D'Arlet. It has been a
while since Jan has done this kind of hiking and it is a little
challenging for her and her short legs. She is talking about taking
a taxi back, but Steve checks his GPS that he has with him this time
and sees that the road back is just a mile over flat streets !!!
Where was this information the other times we did this hike always
climbing back over the hill the way we came ?!?! We have a big lunch
over in Petit Anse D'Arlet, Steve & I go for a swim as we wait
for lunch. Find an ATM before heading back to Grande Anse D'Arlet
via the road. Hard to believe we never went back this way before. A
walk down the beachfront pedestrian walkway stopping in the gift
store before going back to our boats for a cool refreshing swim. A
cloudless sunset with a Green Flash. Monday we get to sleep in a
little again and get under way by 11:30. We are just going “around
the corner” to Anse Mitan, a very short trip and with the wind on
our nose we just motored all the way. We are anchored by 1, have
lunch on board. Steve has a boat project to work on so George drops
Jan & I off to go check out the shops. A few hours later with
just a few purchases we are ready to go back to the boats. Pick up a
warm baguette at the newly redone and re opened little grocery store
for dinner later on Ocean Star after another sunset with another
Green Flash! A lovely evening with the lights of Fort de France
sparkling across the bay. Tuesday we had decided on an early
departure and are under way by 7 am with a COOL 77°
out to head up to St. Pierre. We
motor sail with just the main across the bay and pass Fort de France.
By 8:30 it has warmed up to 87°
we have the jib out and motor off and are enjoying a beautiful
morning on the water. As we are approaching St. Pierre we pass
friends Russ & Mary Kay on S/V Once Around who are heading
in the opposite direction. A big wave & shout then a call on the
VHF, sorry we have just missed them again. As we are coming into the
anchorage we have some great views of Mt. Pelee NOT in the clouds and
are anchored by 9:15. A nice swim and short rest before heading into
town to walk up to the Depaz distillerie for lunch, they have a nice
restaurant up there not just rum. A quick tour around the grounds
as the distillerie is doing maintenance so it's not up and running.
But the tasting room was, and the grounds and views as usual are
beautiful. Back down to the boats by 4, another cooling off swim and
an easy night as too soon we will be leaving Martinique early
Wednesday morning. Another 7 am departure with a cool temp. 75°
and an almost cloudless sky. We are in flat seas with light
winds so motor sail the whole way across the channel and up the
coast of Dominica and are anchored in Prince Rupert Bay off the town
of Portsmouth by 2:30. Steve & George go to customs to clear us
in while I go for a swim to check the anchor. We had planned dinner
on Ocean Star BUT the anchorage is a little rolly. George put out a
stern anchor on Wild Thing so she is not rolling. The rolling
can get to Jan and make her sick so we bring dinner over to their
boat for a steadier dinner. The early mornings and evenings are much
cooler now in the mid 70's, jacket weather for me. Thursday
/ Thanksgiving Day, slept in late then went snorkeling for a
couple of hours after lunch. NO turkey day celebration here in
Dominica where Wild Thing and us were the only 2 American
flagged vessels in the anchorage. If we had wanted to we could have
found a small frozen turkey, but it would take a long time to cook in
our little oven and use a lot of propane. So we went with steak &
potatoes and since Jan & George don't eat meat they brought some
fish over to grill and we had a nice UN traditional Thanksgiving
dinner. It was a great dinner with great friends in a great
location, and we got to talk to family back home. Friday we went in for
an early morning walk that Martin the guide we used last time here
told us about when he stopped by to say HI. One last view of
Dominica before the afternoon departure for the short trip over to
the Saints in Guadeloupe for the weekend.
link to pictures; https://picasaweb.google.com/103931849054358791487/MartiniqueDominicaAgain?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCObMjPmwq-HnYA&feat=directlink