Tahiti
Tuesday
26 July – Monday 12 September, 2016
We
arrived in Papeete, Tahiti early Tuesday morning after a fast &
wet ride down from the Marquesas.
The
first 3 days of the passage we had winds 20 to 30 knots with seas 2-3
meters, the occasional swell hitting us just right to spray the
cockpit with salt water then a little later the rain would give us a
good rinse. Sunday the wind & seas laid down as we approached &
passed thru part of the Tuamotu's, Monday was a beautiful sailing day
but we had to keep the sails reefed to stay below 6 knots so we would
arrive Tuesday AM and not Monday PM. As we approached the port of
Papeete we called the harbormaster to ask permission to enter the
port. A lot of big cargo ships, ferries, and cruise ships are always
coming and going in & out of the small entrance to the port so it
is a good thing to check that the coast is clear to enter. Next we
call the marina to see about a slip, they tell us to just choose
whichever slip we want. This is a new experience for us as usually
they ask your boat length, width, & depth and direct you to a
certain slip. We find a slip easy enough as there are plenty of
empty spaces, no dock hands to help with lines but 2 nearby boats
crew came over to help. Boat tied up, we go to check into the
office, this is a gated marina with the office located outside of the
gated area. So a boat owner going by had to let us out. Once
checked in with the office we received our gate access cards, as well
as giving access to the showers, bathrooms and lounge area. One of
the cards gets money put on it to activate the water &
electricity at the pedestal on the dock at your slip. A pretty neat
idea as long as you remember to keep $ on the card and don't run out
when the office is closed as that is the only place to top off the
card.
Back
to the boat and Steve gets the 220 electric cord out, which turns out
to be just long enough to reach as we were bow in at the slip.
Batteries charging & water hose hooked up so the clean up of the
boat was started. We wound up in a slip right behind friends boat
S/V Shriaz, who we knew from Grenada.
As
we were approaching Papeete, I had been in phone contact with my
brother Doug who was in Tahiti for vacation. 11 months prior while I
was in Texas visiting family he said they were thinking about coming
to Tahiti for 2 weeks on their summer vacation. At the time I was
pretty sure we would NOT be in Tahiti by the 1st of August
so we talked about them coming to either the Marquesas or the
Tuamotu's to meet up and stay on the boat with us for their 2nd
week. As time got closer it was looking like they would be coming to
the Marquesas even though my nephew just got PADI certified to dive
and they wanted to meet in the Tuamotu's. As more boat problems
occurred our plans changed but so did theirs. My sister-in-law
Laura’s mother was diagnosed with brain cancer, so Laura would not
be coming on this vacation. Doug & Dylan came to Tahiti &
Moorea and spent a few days with us on the boat. Tuesday afternoon
they stopped by the marina on their way to catch the ferry over to
Moorea, dropping off the items they brought for us. After seeing
them off on the ferry I finished washing the boat as Steve started a
few projects from the items that Doug brought.
Wednesday
& Thursday a few more boat repairs. The engine had been running
a little hot, Steve found & repaired a little hose leak. The
watermaker was not pressuring up, at first Steve thought it was due
to another end cap crack, this one just a tiny hairline crack. But
once the end cap was replaced it would still not pressure up. An
email reply back from Spectra said to check O-ring, that was the
problem as one was missing. We had 2 new small tears in the sails
from this passage. Thursday we dropped the main sail so Steve could
repair that one. In between boat projects we walked around town a
little and along the beautiful malecon.
Friday
7/29 I caught the 11:30 ferry over to Moorea to meet up with Doug &
Dylan for a couple of days. Steve stayed at the marina to continue
with a few boat projects. After a fast 40 minute ferry ride I got a
cab to the Intercontinental resort arriving just before they went on
their afternoon dive, while I relaxed by the pool. That night we
walked across the street to have a wonderful steak dinner at the Holy
Steak House Restaurant. Saturday we were up early for the buffet
breakfast then used the hotel kayaks to go out to stingray city. Not
only stingrays but a bunch of black tip sharks swimming around you.
Back to the room to get cleaned up and packed up to move over to the
Hilton. Checked in by 1 and enjoyed a light lunch with our free
drink coupon then back at the room they had left a bottle of wine
that we finished off before I went for a massage. That night dinner
at the Moorea Beach Cafe. Sunday I caught the 8 AM ferry back to
Tahiti and was back to the boat & reality by 9:15. It was a nice
calm morning, perfect to lower the genoa sail so Steve could stitch
that tear in the sail.
Monday
8/1, a little grocery shopping before Doug & Dylan arrived on the
late afternoon ferry. A walk down the malecon and around town before
having dinner on board the boat. Tuesday Doug had an important
conference call, so with the iffy marina WiFi he decided to go to the
hotel across the street. They are a Vini hotspot so he could use one
of our codes to log in and make his call with the internet
connection. Once he was back on the boat we got underway by 10 AM to
take the boat out and anchor overnight in Opunohu Baie in Moorea.
After anchoring and lunch we swam around the boat and got the dive
plane out. After I showed Dylan how it was used it was hard to get
him to let Doug have a chance at it. Tuesday night on the boat at
anchor. Wednesday we took the dinghy down to stingray city, it was
later in the day so a lot more boats/people there but still a lot of
stingrays & sharks swimming in between. We left Moorea around 3
PM to go back to Tahiti, a great sail back hitting 9 knots. We took
a slip on the little dock closer to the marina office &
bathrooms. Our gate cards had expired and of course by this time the
marina office was closed, luckily another boat we knew was on this
dock. Peter from S/V Batu lent us one of his cards to use for
the evening. Doug & Dylan went to shower on shore before coming
back to the boat to pack, they had changed their return flight to go
back a few days early to be with Laura and her mom. Once Steve &
I cleaned up we all went out to dinner before they caught a cab to
the airport for their 11 PM flight back to the US. Not exactly what
we had planned but a great visit.
Thursday
8/4 we get checked back into the marina and reactivate our cards.
The
next 4 weeks we do several small boat projects as we wait for our new
batteries and generator to come from the US. Learning what stores
carry what items we might need and where they are located is always
an adventure. Checking out the local city open air market as well as
the grocery stores, we even have several choices of restaurants to
try out.
Most
of the time we are exploring the area on foot and carrying things
purchased by hand back to the boat, so we make a lot of trips
carrying smaller amounts. Papeete has buses that can be taken for
longer trips once we figured out the schedule & bus stops. We
took the bus to go to the airport to pick up our refrigerator
compressor that was being flown back from Nuku Hiva. It was a no
show as it was taken off the flight due to someone thinking it was
hazardous material, even though it flew TO Nuku Hiva from Tahiti a
week before. Kevin from Nuku Hiva Yacht Services talked to the Air
Tahiti people and it was put on the plane the following day. Steve
was able to install it but needed someone to vacuum it so we had to
locate someone to do that, so easy projects can wind up taking 3 to 4
days.
The
Generator was arriving first, it came air freight the batteries would
be coming via cargo ship. Once we knew of the arrival date Steve
went to work the day before dissembling bolts for easy removal of the
old one. Steve would need help moving the old one out & new one
in so that was arranged a few days ahead with the help from Tahiti
Crew Yacht Services. We had to take down the dodger and bimini to be
able to use the boom to lift it in & out of the boat. Since the
generator is located under a settee in the salon it has great access
but we still had to move the settee and the dining table so things
were quite a mess during this job. On 8/11 the timing was perfect
the old generator was out shortly before the new one was delivered.
We went with the same brand Fisher Panda even though we have had a
LOT of problems and they do not have the best reputation BUT it would
fit into the same spot onto the existing support brackets. Steve
still had to do several modifications for different hoses but after a
couple days work it was in and running and the salon but back
together. The old one sat on the dock for several days while Kevin
made arrangements to have it picked up and shipped to him in Nuku
Hiva on the local supply boat. He wanted it for the parts and to see
if he could re wind the armature.
On
Saturday 8/20 we took the dinghy down to an anchorage where friends
Jeff & Katie on S/V Mezzaluna were anchored to
watch the single man outrigger canoe races. We had been line
handlers on their boat the year before when they went thru the canal
and this was the first time we had gotten to visit with them since.
It was a fun day and we managed to get up close to the race, maybe a
little too close as at one point they were going around us on both
sides.
During
a refueling from our fuel drums on deck Steve noticed a crack in the
arch at the base, not good, we had to find a welder for that repair.
Tuesday 8/23 a guy came to the boat to look at what needed to be
done and said he would be out the following day to do the repair.
They do not allow welding on the docks at the marina but do have a
work dock. Steve spent the day removing the bolts, then to hold the
arch in place, we used the spinnaker line & topping lift line to
help support the arch and pull it away from the boat to be ready to
move to the work dock the following morning to have the work done.
About the time the guy is supposed to show up, Steve gets a phone
call saying he cant come for several days. This is not good, we are
on the work dock exposed to a lot more surge against a metal dock and
the arch needs to get bolted back into place as soon as possible.
Steve makes several phone calls with no luck trying to get someone
else out that day. We go back to our slip, the following day Steve
checks with the marina office to see if they know someone. They do
and he can come out the next day, Friday 8/26. Back over to the work
dock, the guy comes to see what needs to be done then comes back in
an hour, like he said, with his equipment and helper. The guy is
used to working on big freighters so this is a really small job to
him. It is not the cleanest / neatest job but he gets it done and
does NOT charge us anything. Bolts back in and back over to our slip
to re-bed & tighten them down. Steve uses his dremel tool the
following day to try to make it look a little neater. Once again a
simple one or two day job turns into a 3 or 4 day job.
Our
batteries had arrived but were still in customs, and getting a
release date was proving difficult. We were still working thru Kevin
in Nuku Hiva since he had placed the order, another boat was also
waiting for their batteries. Finally on 9/1 they were delivered.
Steve enlisted the help of the two teenagers from S/V Batu to
help pull out the old ones, and carry the new ones down. Steve had
loosened all the fasteners and removed some unused cables to have the
area ready to switch them out. Having done the prep work the actual
switching old / new went very smoothly and was done in one day. We
took delivery of the other boat S/V Athanor's batteries also
since they had a daughter come to visit and had left the dock. They
were returning 4 days later and did not want to have to have them
redelivered. The one battery we purchased in Panama 9 months prior
went to another boat very quickly, the others were all picked up
after Athanor switched theirs out to be disposed of.
Friday
9/2 was my birthday so a NO work day, a fun play day. We rented a
car to tour around the island, stopping at a few tourist stops as
well as the other marina to check it out and of course a few hardware
& supply stores making good use of having a trunk !!! We made it
all the way around the island and had planned to have drinks at
sunset at the Belvedere, known for its fantastic view of the harbor
from 1800 feet above sea level. The maps on my phone & Steve's
tablet had the wrong location, luckily I had their phone # and was
able to call and get directions. It was hard to believe that we
would find it as we drove up the road / trail leading up the
mountainside, we finally found it, way after sunset, but the evening
view of the harbor down below was still great and the dinner was
excellent. The following morning since we had the car until 9, a
quick run to the local grocery store for a few heavy items like soda
& bottles of liquor. A stop to pick up Steve's computer at a
shop where he had dropped it off for help, it is old and overworked &
keeps crashing / freezing up on him, it is on its last days.
That
final week at the marina we finished up boat projects and cleaned the
boat really good after all the work that had been going on. Laundry
with marina water, not free but cheap. Getting the boat organized &
well stocked for going to the Tuamotu’s for a couple of months
where stores if & when available would have very limited
supplies. I had a sinus infection that would not go away so went to
a local doctor to get some meds. Friday September 9 after a little
over 6 weeks we leave the marina to go anchor out by the Tahiti Yacht
Club in Lagoon D'Arue by friends Jeff & Katie on Mezzaluna
who are also waiting on a weather window to head to the Tuamotu’s.
A short trip down there BUT it was against the wind & waves so
our nice clean boat got a lot of salt spray all over the deck. We
first stopped at the fuel dock which is a really tight fit for a boat
our size !! Thankfully Katie & Jeff met us on the dock to catch
our lines. All fueled up, a few more trips to the store to pick up a
few more things that we probably don't really need but since we have
the opportunity we don't want to not take advantage since it will be
awhile before we see stores like the ones in Tahiti. Our weather
window comes Tuesday 9/13 as we leave at 6:45 AM heading north east
to the Atoll Tikehau our first stop in the Tuamotu Archipelago.
Link to pictures; https://goo.gl/photos/vwAgY4PMNPp2Aibx7