Lima, Peru

Tuesday March 8 thru Friday March 18, 2016

We had originally planned to take a month seeing Peru and maybe even see some other countries in South America. BUT by the time we got to Ecuador the third week in January, then getting an appointment with the French Embassy so fast, doing the 3 week road trip came first. By the time we returned to the boat it was the third week in February. Taking care of cleaning the boat & laundry and a few boat projects and it was almost March. Last minute plane fares were high with difficult times or with long layovers and we were running into Easter week. Easter week is a very busy time in Peru, as hotels were booked up at double + prices. BAD planning on my part. Steve was not real thrilled with the idea of leaving the boat at this marina for a month either so we moved to plan B.

My cousin Margaret, a Maryknoll Sister, has been living and serving the poor communities of Lima for 38 years. She has seen a lot in those years, many which were turbulent. Her main focus has been human dignity, helping the families with abuse, neglect, violence, as well as education and community programs. She and her fellow sisters are a huge positive influence in the area they serve. Which is worlds away from the tourist area where we stayed. Since we were “close” in a neighboring country I did not want to miss the opportunity to at least visit her if not the “main” attractions of Peru of Machu Picchu & Cusco.

Plan B turned out to be to take a < 30 hour BUS ride from Guayaquil Ecuador to Lima Peru. Very comfortable seats like 1^st class airline seats BUT NOT RECOMMENDED. This would be a great way to travel around South America on short trips, but it was a long trip with just a few short stops to be able to get out stretch and walk. We saved a lot of $$ and survived is the best summation.

Leaving the boat 9:30 Tuesday morning for a 2 hour bus ride to Guayaquil, time for lunch before our 2 PM bus departure. Bordering crossing 6:30 – 7 PM only immigration, “dinner” served 8 PM. While the seats in the bus were very comfy, the food was NOT even close to what coach seat airline food used to be! About 10:30 just as I was falling asleep we stop at customs. Why they were so far apart we do not know, maybe to give us another break in case we needed to use the restroom as the toilets on the bus were only to be used for #1, #2 needed to be done at one of the stops and if you needed to go between stops you were supposed to ask for a special stop!! I think the food they served was to stop you up.

When I woke at 7:30 AM Wednesday I thought I would have scenery to see. Peru's coastline is DESERT, miles & miles, hours & hours of sand hills. Amazing but not very scenic. One of the movies playing along the way was The Martian, it could have (should have) been filmed along Peru's coastline by just adding a red filter to the camera it would look just like Mars in that movie. It was dark as we reached the city and made our way to the bus terminal by 7 PM Wednesday. Taxi to IFE Boutique Hotel in Miraflores by 8, then walked a few blocks for a great Peruvian dinner at Tanta. Before going to dinner I wanted to use the phone to check in with my cousin, when I asked the clerk how to dial from the room phone she gave me a cell phone to use for that call AND for our entire visit! Made communicating with my cousin that week much easier.

The city of Lima is a little unsettling, having 10 million (a 1/3 of all of Peru) people living there, ½ in poverty, the traffic alone was overwhelming. It is located in a desert, with miles & miles of sand hills surrounding it, with most of the poor living in shanty towns on those hills. Yes we have seen poverty in all the countries we have visited, but the numbers & bleakness of the Lima landscape intensified it. It does have some very nice areas as well and the history is riveting making it an interesting place to visit. Regretfully we did not get to see the other regions of the country that we have heard and read so many wonderful things about.

Thursday morning my cousin picked us up in her 1992 manual shift VW bug (no A/C), drove from our lovely Miraflores section on Lima’s SW side to her pueblo / town / neighborhood to the east of town. Even though it was not that far distance wise, an hour by car in traffic, it is worlds away as far as living conditions. Her area NOW is more established many family homes, many paved streets, some blocks even have gated access. It is surrounded by many “New Towns” OR what they refer to as invasions. A big group of people come in and at first settle on the land (sand hills) with bamboo huts and then soon build brick one room dwellings & expand from there. At first no water or electricity, after time they get water trucks and electricity and then even city water but this takes years. She has been helping these people try to keep their dignity and help with all the problems these conditions bring out for 38 years ! This was not the tourist version of Lima. A lot of moto cars AKA tuk-tuks in this area also so driving even more crazy. Everyone turning left from the right lane or right from left lane, passing on either side. Horns beeping ALL the time, just crazy scary. We then went to pick up another sister and went to lunch back towards central Lima at Bodega Chantilli. Back out to her area to visit her work place, then back towards town to pick up pizza’s for dinner with her Peruvian family. A lovely meeting and dinner with Margaret acting as interpreter. So nice to see that she has been surrounded with this big loving family. Margaret then drove us back to town, as she was staying at the Maryknoll city center house where we got a taxi back to the hotel to save her the added trip after a long hot day.

Friday 3/11, Margaret picked us up again along with another sister, Annalyn, to go out to the archaeological site of the Museo Pachacamac. Once there Margaret settled in to wait at the cafe while we went out to see the site. Built PRE Inca but later taken over by the Incas, it is an amazing sight that is still mostly buried beneath the sand. The area first settled in 200 AD, is believed to be a religious site, most of the temples made of mud-brick were built between 800 – 1400 the Incas taking over in 1470, and archaeologists first began exploring in the 1890s. Even though many of the sites had been previously looted they have an incredible museum with pieces they have recovered. Today they are still working the site but have to be very careful not to have the walls collapse. We had a guide from the museum with us to help explain things as we drove up closer to the different sites before getting out and walking. The new (3 months) rebuilt museum is very informative. The site is near the Lurin river and the town of Lurin where we went for a great Peruvian lunch of chicharron, which in Peru is a method of cooking, NOT the deep fried pork skins that are called chicharron in other Spanish speaking countries. Huge meals, afterward Margaret remembered that it is a good place to share a meal, plenty of leftovers for Margaret & Annalyn to bring back to the center house for dinner. Back at the hotel for showers and rest before going out later for a dessert.

Saturday, Margaret picked us up again along with Annalyn to drop the 3 of us off downtown to see the historic center of Lima. Seeing its churches, cathedral, plazas, and the downtown architecture & sights. Peru is known for its food and we had no problem with Ana's help finding another great lunch spot. Steve didn’t know some of the dishes on the all Spanish menu, so he asked Annalyn to translate. She is vegetarian, and didn’t know the names either, so she asked the waiter, blushing when he told her it was “cow’s testicles”. There was also cow stomach (tripe) and cow tongue. Steve had the tongue. Sightseeing a little more as we walk to catch the bus back to the center house so Anna could go to a meeting. Margaret and Rosemary then took us to the Larcomar mall on the Miraflores cliffs for ice cream and a pisco sour as we watched the sunset over the ocean.

Sunday, Steve & I are on our own to walk around the Miraflores area. We had not seen much of the neighborhood except at night, it is a very easy place to walk around and enjoy. The Malecon a 10 minute walk from our hotel is 6 miles of a beautiful walkway & bike trail with lovely parks along the way on the cliff overlooking the pacific ocean, & where the Larcomar “mall” is located. We enjoy walking all day, after spending time traveling in a VW bug for 3 days. A late lunch by Kennedy park. Signed up for the 7 PM turibus, an open top tour bus, to go to Parque de la Reserva & see the water fountains and light show. 13 water fountains some of which you can play in, if you want to get wet, and one where they do a light show 3 x during the evening. The tour bus then drives to & thru downtown to see the the plazas & buildings all lit up. Glad we did it on a Sunday night when traffic was light by Lima standards.

Monday 3/14, Margaret picks us up to take us to the Larco Museum, a great museum with incredible pieces of pre-Columbian art. They had a wheel chair we could use to allow Margaret to enjoy the museum again as we took our time seeing the different pieces and reading about the history of Peru. A lovely lunch there at the museum before returning to our hotel. After the hot days and late big lunches it is a pleasure just walking around at night when it has cooled off. Finding a light dinner or just a dessert.

Tuesday Margaret takes us to lunch down on the waterfront at Rustica. We don't usually do buffets but this was a great one to do, with a lot of different choices and a good way to learn more about Peruvian food. Steve & I walked down to the marina, but it was another gated private marina (like the one in Salinas Ecuador) and they did not want anything to do with non-members. A lot of the coast line that we saw had a rocky shore, down by the marina they had a nice sand beach but the water along the coast is not Caribbean blue, more like Galveston brown still a lot of swimmers and surfers.

Wednesday we walked back to the malecon this time renting bikes to go a little further north & south along the waterfront. Either on the walkway or the street they have a special bike path, it really is an awesome park, with work out machines along the way, tennis courts, terrain parks & special dog parks where they can go unleashed. After 3 hours on the bikes we were ready to walk again. Spent the afternoon walking around some more. At 7 we took a taxi over to my cousins city center house then out to eat with her and Rosemary at a Chinese restaurant, Chinese with a Peruvian touch, with a very nice Canadian owner. Taxi back to the center house to visit a little more. So grateful for my cousin and her friends taking the time to spend with us showing us Lima. They are amazing ladies doing what they do, sharing their stories gave us a great apprehension of the good they do, so glad we got to spend this time with them.

Thursday 3/17 morning we get a taxi to the bus terminal and are checked in by 7:45 for our 9 AM departure that is delayed until 9:30. We survive the 27 ½ hours then switch to another bus for 2 more hours arriving back on Ocean Star by 4 PM Friday afternoon. Glad to be home learning we are too old to be sitting on a bus for 30+- hours.

Link to pictures;  https://picasaweb.google.com/103931849054358791487/LimaPeru03?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMDh7tOH0JbrHQ&feat=directlink

Ecuador Road Trip

Ecuador Road Trip

Tuesday 26 January – Wednesday 17 February, 2016

 

Getting the luggage off the boat with this crazy dock situation was our first task.  Next a taxi ride to the bus terminal in Santa Elena, next town over, finding where to buy tickets for a bus to Guayaquil then finding the bus to Guayaquil.  We are on our way just after 10 AM (very nice A/C buses).  2 ½ hour bus ride to Guayaquil, taxi ride to car rental, paperwork filled out, driving away in the car by 1:15 to come back almost to where we started.  Hard to believe no rental cars available closer to the marina, but that’s life in a foreign country.

 

Five miles from the marina in the town called Ballenita is a beautiful Hotel / restaurant / museum called Farallon Dillon.  We arrived there around 4 PM, showed to our beautiful sea-view room built into the rock cliff the hotel sits on.  Great views of the coast line and loved hearing the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks and shore without worrying about the boat.  The owner was a former captain in the navy and collected many eclectic items along his travels.  The place is full of nautical items new & old that we enjoyed looking at. 

 

Wednesday 1/27 on our way by 9:30 to head north up the coast on Ruta del Sol now renamed Ruta del Spondyls (thorny oyster). 

A little side note; we were using an app called Maps.Me, great app to use OFF line.  It always takes you via the shortest distance, even if that way is NOT the best road thus taking you twice as long since you have to drive so slowly.  It made for some VERY interesting travel on some very unbelievable roads. “I can't believe this is a road” was stated many times.  But it served us very well over our 22 days and 1360 miles.

The coastal road takes you thru / by many coastal towns and we stopped at two of the more popular ones (Montanita & Puerto Lopez) to stretch our legs and have lunch.  This route also has several scenic overlooks where you can pull off the road and enjoy the views.  A national park also, so our 175 mile / 4 ½ hour trip took us 8 ½ hours, including the police check point stop.  Arriving in Bahia de Caraquez at 6 PM, we did not have a hotel reservation as we were not sure of our arrival date.  Fellow cruisers Victoria and David on S/V Eva Marie had been in the area for a few months and had recently joined partnership with a local business expanding & relocating.  So they were getting ready for their grand re-opening of H sports Bar & Cafe (they do the cafe part).  We found the new location and visited with them for a while, enjoying a great margarita, then went and checked into the Buenavista Hotel and then went out for dinner. 

 

Thursday we enjoyed walking along the waterfront and up to the lookout point of a cross on a hill with great views of the area.  Had lunch at Puerto Amistad, a restaurant built out over the water as well as the official yacht agent / “marina” (no docks just moorings).  Many boats traveling to Ecuador come here, up the river, and stay on moorings.  We wanted to see it, and met Trip the expat owner who is also an ex cruiser and a wealth of information on boats and Ecuador.  He runs a great operation servicing the boats that come there, since we wanted to do land travel we felt better about leaving our boat in a marina.  Enjoy seeing the town, stop by H Bar & Cafe and visit with Victoria & David again.  Dinner that night at El Muelle Uno, great local food at low local prices right on the waterfront by the ferry dock. 

 

Friday 1/29, said goodbye to Victoria & David after having one of her wonderful cinnamon buns and were on our way by 10 AM.  Crossing over the Rio Chone via the 5 year old longest bridge in Ecuador.

The landscape along our coastal trip so far had been very dry, but we noticed a difference as soon as we crossed the river where everything started getting much greener.  Traveling up the coast 2 hours crossing back over the equator, before turning east for another 3 ½ ours that would take us up into the mountains and into the cloud forest of Mindo. Beautiful scenery along mostly good roads but the 2 lane road up thru the mountains had some rough spots, luckily the really bad part did not last too long.  Coming to Mindo was a last minute decision, so once in town by 3:30, we connected to the internet and found a hotel, and once booked finding the actual hotel was a little harder.  We learned during this trip that Booking.com  map / directions can be way off !!!!  Driving up & down the “roads” looking for places would make for a good comedy skit.  In our cozy little room by 5 at Cabanas Armonia y Jardin de Orquides, relax a little before walking to town for dinner at El Quetzal. 

 

Saturday we enjoy breakfast in the hotels garden surrounded by hummingbirds feeding at the feeders. 

Another reason the hotel was hard to find it's a mini jungle of plants and trees, hard to see the hotel from the road.  A sunny day as we start off to go up to the zip line.  Fun time with great views looking over the town / valley.  Next stop the waterfalls, there are several, after hiking down to the first one then you hike up to the others.  We just almost made it to the first one when the skies opened up pouring rain. Glad there was a covered area, no seats but at least we were out of the rain not getting more wet.  Several people came in after us soaking wet.  After about 30 minutes rain slowed a little, I had rain gear so suited up and we made our way back.  The path was muddy coming down and we wanted to go before it got worse by too many feet walking back over it.  Glad we did when we got back to the top, there was a huge group waiting to go down.  That path would have turned dangerous with landslides.  Back to town by 1 for lunch before heading out to Quito.  Driving up out of the valley over the mountains then down into Quito.  Checked into Hotel Real Audiencia in the old historic section of Quito by 5 PM.  Driving a car in downtown Quito is NOT recommended, once we finally found the hotels parking garage the car stayed there until we left.  Not that we needed it, as most of the sites we wanted to see were within walking distance of our hotel.  Hot showers, Steve's clothes were still damp from being caught in the rain, and relax in the room.  Later walked a couple of blocks down to the pedestrian street known as La Ronda enjoying the Saturday night activities on the street before finding a place for dinner.

 

Sunday 1/31, after breakfast we were scheduled with the hotel to go on a van tour with another couple.  At 8:30 we met in the hotel lobby and Fernando our guide had us in the van & on our way to the cable car Teleferiqo.  Located on a hill on the active volcano Pichincha, just west of downtown takes you from 9,680 feet up to 13,280 for views of the city.  We had a partly cloudy day so the views were not spectacular but still pretty great.  As an added bonus when we came down from the cable car, at a meeting hall, they were having a dog show that we got to go in and watch for a little while.  Next stop north of town to the Mitad Del Mundo and Museo De Sito Intinan.  The first being where in 1736 the French Scientists measured & determined the shape of the earth and the location of the equator.  They were off by about 600 feet, where the 2^nd tourist attraction is located.  Even that one is off a little depending on the grade of GPS you are looking at and the time of year.  Both were fun to visit.  Ecuadorian lunch down in town by Parque La Carolina at Mi Cocina.  After lunch we went to the to the former home now a museum of Ecuador’s most famous artist – Museo Guayasamin.  He was also a collector of Pre-Columbian art that the home is full of, he is buried in the garden under the “tree of life” on the grounds.  Next to his home is the Capilla del Hombre / Chapel of man.  It was completed after he died in 1996, and filled with his paintings dedicated to the struggles endured by the indigenous people of the Americas.  This was the highlight of the day.  Back to the hotel at 5:30, showers & relax before going out to dinner.  Sunday the streets driving all day and at night walking were very quiet compared to Saturday.

 

Monday 2/1, we have an 8:30 appointment at the French Embassy to apply for our long stay visa in French Polynesia.  Have a taxi scheduled to pick us up at 7:30, arrive there by 8, early so go wait at the nearby McDonald’s.  Back to embassy we meet with Maria and she reviews our paper work and ask us a few questions, all is in order, we are fingerprinted, pay the fee and are done by 9.  Taxi back to the hotel, change of clothes as it had warmed up and can be more casual walking the streets.

 

We spend the rest of the day walking around “Old Town” Quito (AKA Quito Colonial or Centro Historico), seeing the beautiful churches, plazas, & architecture of the buildings.  We see why it is on the UNESCO world heritage site.  We luck out and see a ceremony going on in La Plaza de la Independencia.  We find out it is the changing of the guards at the presidential palace that takes place every Monday between 10:30 – 11:30 AM.  Very cool to see, the current president has chosen not to live there but comes in daily and he was up on the balcony during the ceremony.  More walking around seeing the sights, up to the Basilica where we climb up one of the steeples and then one of the towers giving us great views of the city.  Stop at a local place for the set menu meal of the day & have a good full lunch for $3.25 each.  More sightseeing then a break for a beer & diet coke. I check email and see a message from the French Embassy that there was a problem with our paperwork and I need to go back.  It is 3:30 so I try to call them, no luck getting thru, send them a message to say we are on our way back.  Maria had entered the wrong amount on my receipt so it had to be redone, scanning my fingerprints with the correct receipt.  Back to the hotel around 5 to relax and clean up before going out to dinner. 

 

Tuesday we signed up for a free walking tour, we normally try to do these when we first arrive but we had other plans.  Even though we knew we would be covering some of the same ground we did the day before it was still worth it to hear some of the history behind the buildings from our guide. We had checked out of the hotel and had our bags in the car ready to go after the tour which started at 10:30.

By 1:30 we were getting in the car for our drive north to Lago San Pablo.    

 

Our drive north takes us thru some dry barren lands before turning green & lush, as we make our way over and around the mountains. Patchwork valleys with volcanoes in the background make for some beautiful scenery along the way.  Arriving in the town of San Pablo and the town of Araque where our hotel is supposed to be.  Can't find it luckily the phone works and we are able to call.  Reto the owner answers and says he will come meet us to show us the way.  Good thing as it is no where near where booking.com had it.  Up a dirt “road” with huge rocks and potholes to avoid, we were glad to make it up there with our little rental car.  Not what we were expecting but great views of the lake and surrounding towns, with the volcano Imbabura behind us.  Suitcases in our room, we ask about getting something to eat since it is almost 5 PM and we had not eaten since breakfast.  There was supposed to be a restaurant on site but there is not.  Back down to town via a better road to see if we can find a place to eat.  Not a lot of choices but we find a little place and both have a piece of chicken & FF Steve a beer for $5.  Our room, is nice enough, bathroom and shower are part of same building but only outside access.  Not a real problem until 3 AM when it is really cold outside so shoes and clothes are needed to go to the bathroom. 

 

Wednesday 2/3 after breakfast is served at the sitting area outside our room we venture out to go to Peguche waterfall located in a forested park next to an indigenous village.  The people of this area still dress and work in their traditional ways and are known for their artisan wares.  Next stop up to the Condor Park, once again our car traveling over some punishing roads.  Slow day for the park, only 3 other people there besides us.  Nice grounds with some great views, but only one Condor, a lot of other hawks and owls and even 2 bald eagles.  Back down to the “town” we had driven past, and read about a lake front hotel that had a restaurant, so we stopped there on our way back.  A little too early for dinner so we had some hot tea & enjoyed the grounds while waiting for dinner time.  I talked to the reception desk to ask if they had any room rate specials, she told me on Friday the rooms would be ½ price for kick off to carnival $135 down to $67, I book us a room.  A nice dinner before heading back up to our hotel.  Dark 8:30 instead of driving all the way to the 1 good road, we passed one that looked decent, they all lead UP which is where we had to go so we took it.   Not the best decision has it soon deteriorated into huge ruts with loose big rocks all around.  At one point we briefly slid backwards on the loose gravel, but we made it and arrived safely back in our room.

 

Thursday we go to Lake Cuicocha, an active crater lake near another volcano, Cotacachi.  A great hiking path along the ridge of the crater gave us some spectacular views of the lake, volcanoes and pasture lands around.  The beauty surrounding you on that trail was amazing.  2 PM time for some lunch but the tour boat was getting ready to go out so we did that first.  Taking us around the lake looking up at cliffs and the 2 small islands in the middle.  A stop to show us the gas bubbles in the lake, unfortunately the guide only spoke Spanish so his information was lost on us, still enjoyed the views.  Afterward lunch where Steve has his first guinea pig.  On our way back we stop at the town of Otavalo, known for its market in the main square  It is after 5 PM so things are winding down but glad we get to see it, less people to say no gracias to as we did not need to buy anything just like looking.  Stop in to the grocery store getting a few drinks and snacks for the room as we did not want to go back out for dinner later after the late lunch.

 

Friday after breakfast and settling our bill with Hosteria Samay Toa, we go check into Cabanas del Lago.  It was an overcast day and we wanted a break from driving on bad roads, so after they let us into our lovely room early we just hung out enjoying the room and the hotel grounds having lunch & dinner there. 

 

Saturday 2/6 we check out at 11:30 & are on our way back to Quito, this time staying at La Coupole Hotel in “New Town”.  A great find at a bargain price on booking.com, and this time they even had the correct location, we are in our lovely room by 2.  We are making another stop in Quito to meet up with a longtime friend of Steve's, Andrew, who is in Ecuador working.  Years ago he & Steve both worked for Exxon, Andy is now a consultant and we had been in touch knowing our time in Ecuador would overlap.  His work put him up in Esmeraldas so meeting in Quito that weekend was the plan.

 

Andy and his friend Bryant were just down the street finishing up lunch so they came down to our hotel to meet us.  Bryant, from Quito but has lived in the US, showed us around the area.  A very lively section of the city with many restaurants bars and hotels.  Stopping at the Republica Del Cacao for afternoon coffee and hot chocolate, while visiting with Andrew and Bryant learning about Quito & Ecuador.  Ecuador has 3 different regions specializing in 3 different varieties of chocolate, thanks to Bryant gifting us with some we got to enjoy them during the rest of our travels.  Back to our hotel, Andrew to the Hilton a few blocks away and Bryant home to clean up and change for dinner.  Dinner out at Cats, then down the street for some live music.  After talking so much during dinner we arrived just as the band was playing their last song, they did come out for an encore so we got to hear 2 songs.  Taxi back to the hotel sometime after 1 AM.

 

Sunday a holiday weekend the streets were even more quiet than the week before.  Seems like most people left the city for the long weekend, which we witnessed on our way back into town the day before - the traffic going north was bumper to bumper for miles & miles.  On a 2 lane road not much you can do, just glad we were going in the opposite direction.  Great breakfast at the hotel then walked the few blocks to the Hilton to meet Andrew.  A little stroll across the street to Parque El Ejido, where vendors set up selling their wares.  Bryant meets up with us and we go to Old Town, to see a couple of museums we had missed.  Even Bryant is surprised how empty the streets are, but not everyone left town as we come across a small carnival parade.  To Casa Del Alabato Museo, the building itself is a colonial house with a beautiful courtyard in the center.  The rooms are set up with different themes describing the Pre-Columbian artifacts, which most are in amazing shape.  Added bonus is the signs are in English & Spanish as well as the English audio recording describing the meaning of the different themes.  A great museum.  Time for a little coffee / tea break and a snack as Bryant answers many questions about his country.   A stop at the Museo De La Ciudad, an old colonial building which was once Hospital San Juan de Dios from 1565 to 1974 !  They had some interesting displays of old medical instruments.   Back to the hotel to clean up & change for dinner with an old friend, great to catch up with Andrew, and a new friend, great having Bryant show us around.

 

Monday 2/8, since carnival celebrations were still going on in parts of the country & hotels were booked, we delayed going to Baños, and stopped at Hacienda La Cienega.  It was close to Cotopaxi National Park that we wanted to go by.   Our visit to the park was disappointing as cloud cover blocked the 19,347 foot high Cotopaxi volcano that last erupted in August 2015 – yes just a few months ago.  Some of the roads in the park were still closed due to that eruption.  We did get to walk around a lake, not very pretty but a nice walk and some good views of the dormant rock face of Volcano Ruminawi.  On to the “hotel” a 17^th century hacienda, with a huge courtyard garden & even its own chapel.  Our room, actually a suite was quite luxurious.  The following day was even more overcast & cloudy so no reason to go back to the park, we just walked around the area of the hotel.  A film crew showed up and set up to do some scenes for a movie.  Pretty fun watching but they had to do a lot of work for a little action, they were there late into the night. 

 

Wednesday 2/10, 8 AM departure another cloudy day, on & off rain as we descend into the valley and the town of Baños traveling thru the clouds.  By 10:30 we are in our room at Hostal Posada del Arte, great little hotel.  Baños is known for its outdoor activities, hiking, biking, rafting, etc. the temperature is warm but we still had drizzling rain.  We walk around town & visit the town waterfall just a few blocks away.  Walk some more to find a nice lunch spot, Casa Hood, before returning to the hotel where I go next door for a massage while Steve reads by the fireplace in the hotel lobby.  Later out for dinner the restaurant we were looking was closed, so walked around some more finding another, lots of choices in town. 

 

Thursday the weather is a little better so we take the car to travel the Ruta de las Cascadas.  Under sunny skies and dry roads renting a bike to travel this route would have been the choice.  Leaving the town passing the dam we come to the first waterfall, and see there is a cable car and a zip line to cross over the gorge to the other side.  Still lightly raining so after a few pictures think we will just take the cable car over, but the rain stops so we go for the zip line.  You have 3 options of how you want to cross, regular = sitting upright, upside down ??, or as we chose superman style.  They have a great set up for this putting your legs in another harness behind you.  Very fun & great view of the waterfall from above.  Rain started up again so instead of walking up a muddy path to zip line back we took the cable car back.  Traveling up the road we were shocked at how many zip lines they had going over the gorge.  A lot of stops along the way to pull over & view the beautiful scenery.  Arriving at Rio Verde and El Pailon del Diablo (Devil's Cauldron).  Hiking down into the Gorge you come to the entrance where you then hike up Grieta al Cielo (Crevice to Heaven) a path CUT into the rocks going up behind the waterfall, it was awesome .  With all the rain the waterfall was in great form an impressive sight !!

 

Friday more rain, we were able to get out and walk around town some more but conditions were not favorable for outdoor activities.  I had another massage, apparently a popular occupation in Baños as there were a lot of them to choose from all very inexpensive, $20 -$30 for 60 – 90 minutes !   For dinner we went to the Taberna Armenia restaurant that was closed the night before and had a wonderful meal.                 

 

Saturday 2/13 we left by 7 AM so the hotel had made a to-go bag breakfast for us.  We were taking a longer scenic route to get to our next destination.  We were hoping the rain and clouds would clear as we drove up out of the valley, and it did some, but then the clouds hung around as we made our way up and around the mountains.  When we could see it looked beautiful, but it got a little tense as visibility was really low and cars still were passing on blind curves.  Suddenly it started to clear, and we could see Chimborazo Volcano off in the distance.  It was an awesome sight with its snow capped peak.  Chimborazo is the highest mountain in Ecuador (20,564 Ft.) and lies within the Chimborazo Fauna Reserve Park.  The terrain is very dry and barren making the volcano stand out even more.  At the park entrance we have our bag breakfast, we are at 13,590 feet, then we drove (you can walk) up along a switchback road to 15,180 feet where the trails begin, going up to 18,000 ft, about 1,000 ft higher than Everest base camp.  This is high, very high.  If we were in an airplane, the oxygen masks would have dropped at 10,000 ft.  We have a little over half the oxygen we’d have at sea level.  We were feeling the effects of the altitude and by this time some clouds were forming so the top was not as visible, plus we were on a time limit as we had a train to catch at 2 PM.   Wish we could have spent a little more time there but it was so worth stopping there, another definite do not miss stop in Ecuador.   

 

We leave the park and continue to the town of Alausi where we will take a short train ride known as Nariz del Diablo (Devil's nose) train ride.  Back in the early 1900's the track was built to connect the city port of Guayaquil to the high roads leading to the capitol city of Quito.  The train descends on a very narrow track cut out of the mountains edge.  The turns are so tight that the train bypasses the turn then stops switch is moved and goes down backwards on the next track to the next turn where again it passes the turn switch is thrown and proceeds down the next section of track.  The train stops at a little village where they sell art work and have a very interesting museum about the people of the area and the building of the track. The track is still in use for other train travel.  Back on board back the way we came to the town of Alausi.  I had tried to contact one of the hotels in town to make a reservation but never heard back from them.  So we walked down Main Street to see what was available, several choices none any better than the other from what we could see.  Checked into Hotel San Pedro, and they had a gated drive to put the car (which later was jammed pack).  Got the room just in time as the town started to fill up with a lot of people coming in to take the train on Sunday (Valentine’s day).  Found a place for dinner then returned to our room that overlooked the main street for a noisy night of people and car alarm sounds.

 

Sunday 2/14 is market day in Alausi, so we walk around town a little seeing the sights before leaving at 9:30 to head to Cuenca.  Again more beautiful scenery as we drive up and around the mountains, they need more spots to pull over for lookout points along the roads in Ecuador.  Unlike the locals that feel safe and comfortable just stopping on the road wherever, we were not so inclined.  Arriving in Cuenca by 1 the street in front of our hotel is all torn up under construction.  Not that we would have been able to park out front as most of the streets are too narrow.  Most are also only one way, we find a place to park a few blocks away and walk back to the hotel.  We know it is too early to check in, first time actually had to wait, just want to know where to bring the car to unload the luggage.  The staff at Hotel Presidente were very helpful, the desk clerk called for help and soon another employee came and walked with us to bring the car around to the hidden drive behind the hotel.  Unloaded the luggage to hold at the front desk as the lot behind the hotel is only a temporary space and the car would be moved.  Walked around town finding a place for lunch, returning to the hotel by 3 to check into our room.  Just during the few hours from when we arrived till after lunch, we could see the traffic thinning out and being Sunday most of the shops were closed.  By the time we went out to dinner it was very quiet, several of the restaurants we went to were closed but we found a very nice place called Chalupa and had a great Valentines dinner.  The city looks beautiful at night with all the lights shining on the churches and old buildings. 

 

Monday we got on one of the city tour buses, taking about 2 hours to go around pointing out some of the city sites.  It stops for about 30 minutes at Mirador de Turi which gives great views of the city.  Afterward we walk to Pumapungo, one of the sights pointed out on the bus, the remains of the Inca city of Tumipamba.   A small complex but interesting with beautiful gardens and a bird display showing how they were part of the Inca lives.  Finding a place for lunch just before they closed at 3, interestingly enough run by expats from Wisconsin, former Peace Corps volunteers.  Walking back by the central park and the cathedral I see people on top, so we go in and ask, and yes you can climb up a brick spiral stairway to the rooftop for views over the city.  A delicious huge Pizza for dinner at Fabianos for dinner.   

 

Tuesday we have them bring the car around so we can drive an hour to El Cajas National Park.  NO volcano here but miles & miles of rugged terrain & some 200 lakes.  Loved seeing all the different terrains during our travels and loved being outdoors in cool / cold weather for a change.  We hiked around Laguna Toreadora the path got very muddy in spots, usually a way around on a llama path that was hard to tell from the people path.  Light rain during part of the hike and winds increased depending on which side of the lake we were on, another great day in another great park.  All the parks had an entrance gate to check in with, but all were free to go into.  They all had several fairly well marked trails to choose from short to a few hours to a couple of days.  We had left over pizza from the night before, so even though warm soup from the restaurant at the park sounded good we went with our cold pizza.  Back to the hotel warm showers before going out to dinner at Tiesto's that had been closed the 2 nights prior when we tried to go.  This is a restaurant that specializes in fixed price multi-course meals for two or more, and is one of the top rated in Cuenca.  We went al la carte, which got a frown, but then splurged on a bottle of wine that won back a smile.  The food and service were excellent.

 

Wednesday we are on our way back to Guayaquil to get a bus back to Santa Elena to get a taxi back to La Libertad and Puerto Lucia Marina and Ocean Star.  Turning the rental car in at the airport was a little tricky as no signs for Budget & no building.  Finally got them on the phone and managed to communicate that we wanted to turn the car in but could not find them.  Turns out you have to park in the airport parking lot, go inside to their desk where they come back out to the parking lot to check the car back in.  At the bus terminal after asking we found the right window to buy a ticket, then found the right gate for our bus to take us home.  Glad for a wonderful opportunity to see a part of the beautiful country of Ecuador, great to see a few old friends and great to meet some new ones.

 

Link to pictures;   https://picasaweb.google.com/103931849054358791487/EcuadorRoadTrip?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCILY04fv69GEYw&feat=directlink

    

To Ecuador

Las Perlas, Panama To Ecuador

Saturday 9 January – Wednesday 20 January, 2016

Before heading to Ecuador we got to spend a few days in Las Perlas again with dear friends Bill & JoAnne from the S/V Ultra that we had traveled a lot with over the last 4 years. They were line handlers on another friend’s boat transiting the canal to the Pacific, and we picked them up at Balboa Yacht club and were under way by 8 AM. Motored in calm seas over to Las Perlas Islands & anchored off Isla Bayoneta by 3:30 to enjoy a nice swim then a relaxing evening on the boat. The following day we went exploring, to a rock reef that gets submerged at high tide and to several nearby beaches. Wednesday another boat anchored nearby drove his boat onto a mud flat and waited for low tide so he could clean his boat’s bottom out of the water. We had just been talking about how this would be a good place for careening a boat with the huge tide shifts. It was cool to watch him do this. JoAnne & I went back to the nearby beach to burn trash while Bill helped Steve clean the bottom of our boat in the water in preparation for our trip to Ecuador. That afternoon we went over to anchor by Isla Chapera and snorkeled. Tuesday over to Contadora where I dropped Steve, Bill & JoAnne off on shore to go walk & see some of the island. All back to the boat for lunch then a dinghy ride around to north side of the island to drop Bill & JoAnne off for their Ferry ride back to Balboa in Panama City. We were really glad to have this time to visit with them before they head east and we head west.

Wednesday we put the boat back in order for a passage, stowing things we leave out while at anchor. Steve made a few meals to heat up underway, caught up on emails and called family letting them know we were finally making the voyage to Ecuador.

Thursday morning we were underway at 7:45, in calm seas with light winds. By 9 we had enough wind to sail and it was a beautiful start. By 4 the winds died down and were directly behind us, so we rolled up the sails and motored enjoying a beautiful sunset dinner. By 10 the winds picked back up and we were able to sail all night and most of Friday, which was another beautiful sunny calm day. By 3 we rolled up the sails and motored all night and all day Saturday in very calm seas, going through the doldrums in the Intra-tropical Convergence Zone, where the trade winds from the north meet the trade winds from the south, resulting in no wind. Taking advantage of the calm seas, we topped up fuel from our spare drums on deck, joking that we could water ski and wishing we could go for a swim. Steve even made a few more meals with some veggies that needed to be used up. It was strange being underway with windows open. Saturday afternoon clouds started to form and move over us, no beautiful star gazing that night. When Steve got up at 1 for his shift, he decided to take advantage of the wind we now had and turn the engine off. We put just the genoa out and the wind angle had us bashing into waves, even though they were only 3 + feet it made it really hard for me to get any sleep, by 4 I asked Steve to make it calmer and we reefed the genoa and turned off course to make for a little calmer ride.

Sunday morning we had overcast skies and some rain during the early morning hours and more later in the day. We had been heading west / southwest and now were starting to head more south. Seas still only 3 feet +/- but not in a smooth rhythm so we turned off course looking for a smoother ride. I went down to try to catch up on the sleep I missed the night before. Steve had to wake me for a few minutes to come up on deck in case we needed to use the VHF radio as a 25 ft fishing boat was heading directly towards us. We were a long way off the Colombian coast but these small open boats go out far ! NO problem as they passed behind us heading towards land. Wind is on the nose so we continue to motor with the main up the rest of the night.

Monday January18th at 5:15 AM we crossed the equator !! Now we are in the South Pacific Ocean.

The day clears to another sunny calm day, we take advantage and top up with fuel again, these extra drums of fuel are coming in handy, as it is allowing us to motor when conditions are not good for sailing, making our 5 day passage a 5 day passage instead of a 7 – 8 day passage.  
As night time approaches and we are only 15 miles off the Ecuador coast we put the sails up, as we do not want to run over any fishing nets with the prop spinning. Steve gets to tack a few times trying to keep the sails full as he slowly passes some lighted floats and many unlit fishing boats. By the time I come up for my watch we have cleared all the obstacles and roll the sails up to motor onto course.

Tuesday morning we are approaching La Libertad, where our marina Puerto Lucia is located. The marina opens at 8 but we were told they seldom answer the VHF radio. We had slowed down to be able to hail them on the radio before entering the small marina basin. On my 2^nd attempt they answered in Spanish, we were able to communicate who we were and that we would be at the entrance in 15 minutes. Not sure of her answer we proceed towards the entrance. We see a tender come from the marina and it is a “marinero” (marina employee) to guide us in. He shows us to a spot to anchor right outside the marina first and then ferries us in to the marina office. We get all checked into the marina and she calls an agent to inform them of our arrival and they let us know they will come to check us in at 2. Back to the boat by 9:30 to get lines and fenders ready. 3 marineros come back out in the tender to help guide us into the med moor slip. One of the marineros asks to come on board to help and I quickly accept the offer.

This is the strangest set up for a marina we have ever seen !!!! Backing into the slip, a floating dock and tying our bow lines to moorings in the water. We would need to get on & off the boat from the back so we needed to move the dinghy, which we did not have time to do before coming in, and which of course was all tightly tied down securely from our passage. We are loosely in the “slip” giving us room to get the dinghy down. Moving with the surge a little close to the boats next to us. Dinghy down & to the side we get tied up to the dock and to shore and to the mooring. It takes a LOT of line adjustments as we have to be close enough to the dock to be able to jump off the boat, but not to close as we swing with the surge that we crash into the dock !! Only seeing the pictures can you understand. Once on the dock Steve asks where the electrical outlet is, whoops missing one at this slip. They say it will be fixed the following day.

During all this commotion good friends Bruce & Gina from Dream Catcher come by to say hello, and Gina brings us some of her fabulous baked chocolate chip cupcakes for breakfast. That boost of sugar was just what I needed! We had been in communication with them and knew our time here would only overlap by just this one day so we were very grateful to be able to see them again. They introduce us to Arnold the other live aboard here at the marina who is a resident Ecuadorian and a wealth of knowledge of the area. We made plans for the evening to go for pizza for their farewell dinner and for us to meet some other people, 2 of whom we had met briefly in Shelter Bay and had talked to on the SSB radio. They were a little concerned that customs might not show up to check us in and they are a lot stricter here about leaving your boat before you are checked in. But all 5 officials plus the agent show up at 3:30, and all went smoothly with help from Arnold acting as interpreter. 

All cleaned up by 6 the group piled into 2 cars and went to Salinas a few miles down the road for pizza, and then for ice cream afterward. A fun time and great to catch up with Bruce & Gina. Back to the boat for a great night’s sleep for Steve & I.

January 20, Wednesday morning Steve and Bruce talked and decided we will move into their slip when they leave. They had purchased some extra lines to tie up to the docks here and sold them to us at a discounted price, plus they were going to leave their bow lines that were covered with 4 months of water growth and slime behind. This way we could get our lines out of the water and not have them ruined and have electricity. They left their slip at 10, and went over to the fuel dock, an hour later after several goodbyes to folks they got on their way to head north to Costa Rica.   


Arnold helped us let the marineros know we would be moving, and we confirmed it with the office that it was okay. Back to our boat to get ready to move !! It was so much fun the first time we were not thrilled about moving again but it was for the best. With the help of the marineros in their skiff pushing us off a mooring line from the other side of the marina caught on our keel. Arnold and another marinero on the dock to all help with lines we were moved into the new slip by 12:30. The electrical outlet is NOT a marine outlet, just a simple wall outlet box on the end of a loose wire, but Dream Catcher was plugged in for the last 4 months without a problem so hopefully it will hold out for 3 more without any problems. Get the water hooked up, and wash the deck of the boat. Unload all items in the dinghy in preparation of lifting it onto the dock to keep it out of the water, also took the cover off to wash and get ready for mending. Dinner on board and another good night’s sleep. 

Our first impression of the marina was not good, BUT the people we have met in our short time have all been very friendly and helpful. Even the marina staff who speak no English have been extremely helpful and patient with our attempts to talk in Spanish. We look forward to exploring this area and the other regions of Ecuador. 

Link to pictures;  https://picasaweb.google.com/103931849054358791487/ToEcuador?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOyC69OBsNWliQE&feat=directlink

Return to Las Perlas

Return to Las Perlas

Sunday 22 November – Wednesday 23 December

 

 

We spent 4 + weeks exploring the Las Perlas Islands under almost ideal conditions.  Two overcast days where we did not go swimming, and one night we had a small short shower where we had to close the hatches.  The first week we had a few days where the winds kicked up the wave action so landing the dinghy on the beach was not possible, but we could just swim off the boat.  We are still amazed at the 15 + foot tides on this side, so a lot of the pictures are of the same place one at high tide & the other at low.  The tides also brought strong currents so we could swim in place behind the boat.  The snorkeling was not very good, with all the tidal swings the water has a lot of sand floating so visibility was poor.  There were a few good spots, and times when we would see a lot of fish around the rocks.  Many times we would be sitting in the cockpit and hear huge feeding frenzies and see the water erupt with activity.  Rays were everywhere, jumping and swimming nearby.  Birds singing, pelicans fishing.  After the full moon on Thanksgiving, the star gazing was fantastic, some very pretty sunsets.  Definitely one of the more relaxing cruising areas we have explored.

 

Leaving the marina felt great, we arrived back at Contadora around 3:30 Sunday afternoon, picking up a mooring we realized later a little too close to the runway for the small planes arriving and leaving the island.  I am sure they were surprised to see us also.  We moved to another one further away the following day, but as we went to check them first the dinghy motor died.  After rowing back to the boat Steve was able to diagnose the problem of a screw holding the float valve in place worked its way loose and the float valve was off.  Fixing it took a couple of hours bringing the motor back on board to do the work.  Just another day in paradise.  Staying at Contadora a few days with good internet as Steve made sure the parts we needed were ordered.  A few power boats around & one other sail boat came into the anchorage. 

 

Next stop back to Isla Chapera, where we had the island to ourselves to spend Thanksgiving, watching the beautiful full orange moon rise and talking to family back in the US.

Friday 11/27 over to new anchorage, east side of Isla Casaya, no other boats around, but a few local boats from a small village on the nearby island of Isla Casayeta.

Saturday 11/28  over to Isla Bayoneta, where we are still receiving internet from Contadora 8 miles away.  There are 2 other sail boats here with a single guy on each, we visit with them learning a little about the area.  Easy to visit other islands and bays with the dinghy from here.

Tuesday 12/1 over to Isla Viveros, anchor on south side, a beautiful bay but the swell works its way into the anchorage, making it quite rolly.

Wednesday we head over to the other side of Viveros and anchor in a little bay on Isla La Mina, nice and calm.  We are across from the north side of Viveros, where we see several houses.  They are trying to develop it like Contadora, but we are still the only ones around.  We took the dinghy over to the big beautiful beach on Viveros but the seas were too rough to land the dinghy on this day.  We enjoy another beautiful day at this perfect little anchorage.

Friday 12/4 we start making our way down the east side of Isla del Rey, the biggest of the Las Perlas islands, anchoring first between Isla del Rey & Isla Espiritu Santo.  Another perfect isolated anchorage.  A few spots where the snorkeling was fair, staying here 2 days.

Sunday 12/6 move down to Isla Canas, another island off the east side of Del Rey,  Anchoring up in a small bay, then explore by dinghy.  A beautiful afternoon until sunset when the no-see-ums came out.  This was our first and only encounter with the biting insects, it was a rough night. 

The next morning we took the dinghy to a near by village to see if they had and fruits or veggies but no luck.  Back to the boat to move to another anchorage as we did not want to deal with biting insects again. 

Monday down to Punta Gorda off Isla del Rey, shortly after we anchored 3 young men & their dogs  stopped by on their way from shore.  Not sure if they were trying to sell us iguana or asking us for $ to anchor, either way we said NO.  We had read that here, as in many Caribbean places the locals eat iguana, that and that cock fighting still happens.  We were concerned that the anchorage might be too open to the swells, but when we came in it was not bad so decided to stay.  Later in the night the winds picked up and shifted from north to east so put us on a lee shore, it was a sandy shore but we still did an anchor watch that night.

Tuesday morning we went out to a reef to snorkel, but a huge black cloud (no rain) moved in just as we arrived and the seas were a little too rough so we passed going to walk the beach instead then back to the boat and moving down to the next bay Morro San Juan,near a river to go explore.  Our first attempt to enter the river it was too much at low tide, we wanted to go in at a rising tide so we could just drift up the river.  The waves were crashing over the rocks near the entrance and only a few inches of water in some spots.  To dangerous to try to enter, so back to the boat to wait and about ½ hour later we were able to make it in between waves.  A nice trip up the river past the mangroves then back to the boat to go over to Isla San Telmo.  Known for its “mysterious” sunken submarine.  A very interresting story behind it as the FIRST submarine built during the civil war !!!   Try this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e8AZ0dJXe6Q  for the story.  The water visibility not the greatest but still very cool to see this 150 year old dive submarine.  Not an overnight anchorage so final stop for the day is at Rio Cacique on Isla del Rey in the Bay of San Telmo.  And we have another sailboat in the anchorage.  Go check out the river entrance and stop by the other boat to say hello.  Plan on seeing the river the following day.

Wednesday we were off with the timing for the tide and the river entrance was a big sandbar.  Nice walk on the beach then we went back to the boat to wait for the tide to come in a little.  The other boat had a smaller lighter dinghy so were able to carry it over the sandbar and start up the river.   Had to wait 2 hours this time before we had enough water to get in.  Later we went by dinghy to the near by village of Esmeralda to get gas for the dinghy. 

There are only a few small fishing villages in this Archipelago, Contadora is the most developed island and a few of the other islands are trying to build resorts and marinas to expand on the tourist trade.  We are glad we got to see it so undeveloped, but still find it surprising that being so close to a major city that there is not more vacation resorts.

Friday time to move on, passing by Punta Cocos at the bottom tip of Isla del Rey.  We passed on this anchorage as a swell was working its way in, there is a dock to go ashore here for the Servicio Maritimo and they welcome visitors.  They called us on the VHF just to check in.  Rounding the tip of Isla del Rey there are several shoals and the waves were building and crashing around them.  We looked at an anchorage in Concholon Bay on the west side but conditions were too rough to even try to get close never mind try to enter.  So plan B is a nice sail over to Isla San Jose.

As we were approaching Isla San Jose we passed a boat leaving, calling them on the VHF radio to say hi, turns out it was S/V Mandala the boat we went thru the canal with.  Another boat heard us talking and hailed us S/V Sweet Chariot were heading to the same anchorage as us.

Once anchored in the big beautiful bay Ensenada Playa Grande, we went over to visit with them.  They were heading out the following morning heading for Costa Rica.  The water here was clearer but still not great visibility, & the beaches were a little to rough to land dinghy on, but it was still magical.  This is the 2^nd biggest island in Las Perlas and is privately owned !!    A lot of tractor work going on around the beach, we could not see any buildings from this bay but were told on the SE side you can see the owners home. 

The generator sprung another leak, this time from the sea water pump seal.  Steve had a spare he had to dig out then take apart all the housing surrounding the generator to be able to access the work area.  Removing it and replacing and reassembly taking several hours.  Then, he found another sea water leak, this time from the generator housing cooler.  The cause was a familiar one, stainless bolts into an aluminum housing that had corroded the aluminum and loosened the bolts enough to allow the box to leak.  Not enough thread left in the aluminum to tighten the bolts, so Steve removed the washers, and the extra couple of threads engaged were enough to seal.  Later back in Panama City, he replaces the bolts with longer ones coated with Tefgel to prevent more corrosion.  Yes, once again boat repairs in exotic places coming true. 

Monday 12/14 we head over to Isla Pedro Gonzalez and anchor in Ensenada Honda.  A marina and resort called Pearl Island are almost complete.  They have a good size village, but we saw a ferry bringing in workers from either the mainland or one of the other island villages.  All the villages we visited the people were very friendly, and they were all very clean, having recycle garbage cans, not a common sight in Panama. 

Wednesday 12/16 we go back to anchor of Isla Mina near Isla Viveros, time to get internet again, even if it is slow.  Weather being much calmer now we took the dinghy all the way around to the marina and ferry dock for the resort.  Walking towards the resort passing some very impressive private homes.  Arriving at the resort they are having an employee party day but welcome us to look around.  Workers live / stay on the island and today family came to visit.  After sight seeing for awhile we head back catching the shuttle bus bringing visiting family back to the ferry as we dinghy back to our boat.  Enjoying our private anchorage and beach at our private island for a couple more days.

Saturday we go back to the resort for lunch, landing the dinghy on the beach this time.  Only a few guest here, not a cheap place to visit. 

Sunday 12/20 we head back to Contadora to get better internet, and check on our supply order.

Tuesday night Steve’s tablet decides to die, making the decision to return to Panama City the following day to be able to get if fixed.  

Wednesday 12/23 at 7:30 AM we say adios to Las Perlas and motor back to Panama City with light winds on the nose and flat seas.  Sighted a pod of dolphins on the way back.  Still looking and waiting for whales.

Picking up a mooring at Balboa Yacht Club by 1 PM, we get the water taxi to shore.  After checking in with the office we head to town to go to the mall and the Samsung store to get Steve's tablet fixed.

After being on our own for almost 4 weeks seeing VERY FEW people and wearing VERY FEW clothes it was quite a shock to go to a mall 2 days before Christmas !! 

Tablet fixed, and a few groceries purchased back to the boat to see another pretty sunset and watch the ships enter and leave the canal while rocking and rolling to the big wakes from passing power boats. 

 

Link to pictures;   https://picasaweb.google.com/103931849054358791487/LasPerlas?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCKSEvZ7tg8ST-AE&feat=directlink




Pictures are not all in order like how I entered them !!!   Not that anyone but me would notice or care.